AN INVETERATE blue-crab enthusiast, Baltimore chef Spike Gjerde holds the catch from the neighboring Chesapeake Bay in the highest esteem. “Our crabs are the sweetest and most tender. By comparison, Dungeness doesn’t even rate,” he said. Sure, the Gulf of Mexico produces blue crabs, too, but they boil them down South, and Mr. Gjerde isn’t having it. “Steaming, how we do it in Maryland, preserves the meat’s delicacy,” he said.
For his final Slow Food Fast contribution, Mr. Gjerde shares a classic deviled crab recipe….